What Is a Pearl?

Pearls are one of the only gemstones created by a living organism.

They form inside molluscs such as oysters and mussels. A pearl begins when layers of nacre, a smooth crystalline substance, gradually build around a small nucleus. Over time these layers create the luminous surface that pearls are known for.

Unlike mined gemstones, pearls require no cutting or polishing to reveal their beauty. Their lustre, shape and character are formed entirely through natural processes.

Every pearl is therefore individual, influenced by its environment, the water in which it grows and the length of time it is allowed to develop.

Natural vs Cultured Pearls

Historically, pearls were extraordinarily rare.

Natural pearls formed without human intervention and were discovered by chance by divers searching the ocean floor. Because of this rarity, pearls became symbols of wealth and power throughout ancient civilisations.

Today, nearly all pearls are cultured pearls.

Pearl cultivation began in the early 20th century and involves carefully introducing a nucleus into a mollusc, encouraging it to produce nacre around it. This process mirrors nature but allows pearls to be grown in a controlled and sustainable way.

Cultured pearls make it possible for the beauty of pearls to exist beyond royal treasuries and museums while still preserving the natural process that makes them unique.

Where Our Pearls Come From

Our pearls originate from Zhuji, China, the global centre of freshwater pearl cultivation.

Located in Zhejiang province, Zhuji produces the vast majority of the world's freshwater pearls and has developed a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and quality.

The region’s freshwater lakes provide ideal conditions for pearl cultivation, allowing pearls to develop thick layers of nacre and the soft, luminous glow that distinguishes fine pearls.

For generations, pearl farmers in Zhuji have refined their techniques to balance tradition, patience and precision.

How Pearls Are Graded

Pearls are evaluated using several key characteristics:

Lustre
The sharpness and intensity of the light reflected from the pearl’s surface. High-quality pearls display a deep, mirror-like glow.

Surface Quality
Natural pearls often contain minor imperfections. The fewer visible marks, the higher the grade.

Shape
Perfectly round pearls are rare, though many jewellery pieces celebrate more organic shapes.

Size
Larger pearls generally require more time to develop and are therefore more valuable.

Colour & Overtone
Freshwater pearls can display subtle variations in tone, from soft white to warm ivory, often with delicate overtones that shift in different light.

At LUMERA, pearls are selected individually for their lustre, character and balance, rather than strict uniformity.

Pearls Through History

For thousands of years, pearls have been among the most treasured gemstones in the world.

Ancient Roman elites considered pearls the ultimate symbol of status. During the Renaissance, they adorned royal garments and jewellery across Europe. In many cultures, pearls represented purity, wisdom and enduring elegance.

Unlike gemstones shaped by tools, pearls carried the allure of something formed entirely by nature.

That connection to nature continues to define their appeal today.

One of One

No two pearls are identical.

Subtle variations in shape, tone and surface give each pearl its own character.

At LUMERA, every piece is created around a single, carefully selected pearl, meaning each design exists as one of one.

Rather than forcing pearls into uniformity, we allow their natural individuality to guide the design.

The result is jewellery that feels personal, distinctive and impossible to replicate.